Friday, January 31, 2014

T'BURG'S HOMETOWN JOINT: THE FALLS RESTAURANT

The Falls Restaurant, formerly the Falls Tavern, once a roadhouse, has made its way up the food chain, serving some of the area’s heartiest breakfasts, lunches, and dinners, from a menu of comfort foods with a local touch, and more daring daily specials. At the hands of the brother-and-sister team of Carol and Fred Van Derzee, the décor is Americana, the service warm and welcoming, especially with the addition of The Falls’ new Adirondacks style dining room.

Early weekday mornings find neighborhood regulars -- farmers, businesspeople, and retirees -- kibitzing with one another from their usual tables and helping themselves to freshly brewed coffee from the double Bunn, while the Van Derzees, including Carol’s son Cole, or long-time chef Mindy Cross, speed out orders of bacon, eggs, and home fries, omelets, or stacks of platter-sized flapjacks for calorie-burning farmers, and homemade pies and java for the rest of us.

Weekends are another story entirely, especially in the summer, when “lake people” fill the place to its hand-hewn rafters, and when the Van Derzees’ 84-year-old mom, Nancy, commands the toaster battery, turning out raft after raft of just-right toast slabs carved from the restaurant’s own whole wheat and white bread loaves. The restaurant also produces a grand selection of flaky-crusted pies, among them custard, blackberry, strawberry rhubarb, and, of course, apple -- and cakes.

The weekend’s blackboard breakfast menu turns to more daring fare:  poached eggs on smoked salmon hash, an egg-white omelet stuffed with artichoke, roasted red pepper, and provolone, a delicious version of huevos rancheros with a base of cornmeal pancakes in place of tortillas. cream cheese-filled crepes with strawberries or warm peaches, and a comfort-food favorite, farmhand-sized orders of sausage gravy over biscuits.

The lunch and dinner menu offer both standard fare -- burgers, fries, sandwiches -- and the likes of smothered chicken (buried in spinach, artichoke hearts, roasted red pepper and mozzarella), or shrimp Florentine, supplemented with Carol’s latest fresh-and-local creations, along with the daily blue-plate special, actually served on blue plates: roast turkey and gravy, chicken and biscuits, and, our favorite, the Falls’ spicy meatloaf and mashed potatoes (Tuesdays); comfort food heaven!

On a recent Friday night one of us opted for the fried fish platter -- a good-sized hunk of sweet and fresh beer-battered haddock with baked potato and coleslaw; and the other downed a hefty hunk of prime rib (queen-sized) with baked potato and a fresh green salad.  Total cost with tax and tip: $34.00.  Not bad for a Friday night’s dinner and entertainment.

The new post and beam Adirondacks-style addition built by Carol’s husband, Ken Davis, (you’ve seen his even more monumental work if you’ve visited the tasting-room barn at Americana Vineyards), was built of lumber harvested and hand-hewn from the family’s property adjoining the restaurant. Its elegant new front door is adorned with deep-relief oak leaves and acorns carved by T’burg sculptor Jay Seaman, who is also responsible for the lively fish sculpture that graces the roof’s peak.

Beloved by T’Burgers for their community participation, the Van Derzees sponsor a major annual fundraiser for the fight against pediatric cancer, as well as providing food for many local charities and events, and The Falls has, over the years, become a weekly meeting place for local groups, including area clergy who meet there one night a week, and a group of women friends who meet on another (their husbands occupy a separate table). The addition’s fifty seats may alleviate the summer weekend breakfast crush. It also provides larger tables for intergenerational family groups who gravitate to the place for its something-for-everyone menu and friendly service.

The Falls is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays, and brunch only on Sundays, and the Van Derzees also cater off-premises events.


Falls Restaurant
214 East Main Street
Trumansburg, NY 14886

607 387-9761
www.fallsrestaurantandtavern.com