DANO'S ON SENECA

Driving over the ridge that separates Cayuga and Seneca Lakes, preoccupations and concerns of the day evaporate as painterly views of farms, lake, and vineyards unfold। It’s a mini-vacation heading to  Daño’s Heuriger in Lodi for a leisurely dinner. What is a heuriger (pronounced hoy-rigger)? Born in the vineyards surrounding Vienna, it’s an informal place for drinking new wine in mugs, and dining on hearty, satisfying local foods—spreads, salads, smoked or roasted meats, fresh fish, and—hey, this is about Vienna—fabulous desserts with plenty of schlag (whipped cream)। Daño Hutnik and Karen Gilman, with Cornell architect Andrea Simmitch, have constructed a bright, airy place with a large dining patio and spectacular vineyard and lake views। Displaying Gilman’s large, colorful landscape paintings, it fills with a lively crowd of couples out for a romantic evening; tourists from as far away as Ukraine and as near as Rochester; extended families (Hutnik and Gilman make special provision for serving meals family style); and vineyard workers, winemakers, and cellar rats from nearby wineries. We’re always surprised at the number of Ithacans we run into, too.

This particular area around Seneca Lake, locally called “the banana belt” for its uncharacteristically mild climates, grows some of the finest vinifera grapes and makes some of the most highly acclaimed wines in the Finger Lakes, and has attracted its more than its share of international press and Governor’s Cup wine awards. If you’re wondering which wine goes with Wiener schnitzel, start with a bottle of Lamoreaux Landing Blanc de Blanc bubbly, which goes with just about anything, and is bound to put you in a cheery mood.

We began our meal with a salad of mixed organic field greens, with the first fresh dill of the season, culled from the restaurant’s herb garden, and served with red wine–roasted peaches, shaved sheep’s milk black peppercorn cheese, endive slivers, and caramelized walnuts. A bowl of steamed Prince Edward Island mussels festooned with “seed pearls” of garlic, and minced parsley and fresh tarragon was the best we’ve tasted since a breakfast of mussels on Cape Breton Island years ago. A basket of mixed artisanal breads served to sop up the juices. On a hot June day, this might have served as dinner. But eager for this culinary adventure, we forged ahead, testing the spreads that are a Daño’s specialty: Liptauer, reddened with sweet paprika; Hotel Sacher, punctuated with bits of pickle and capers; and our favorite, a pumpkin seed oil spread. On other occasions we’ve also enjoyed the gorgonzola, bacon, horseradish walnut, and artichoke-lemon spreads. This night the kitchen sent out a sampler of salads, too: a mustardy celery-root; a creamy, mild salsify; a tangy/vinegary cucumber salad; and our all-time favorite, Daño’s magenta-colored, sinus-clearing horseradish beet salad.

We're sworn to secrecy re the ingredient that makes Daño’s red cabbage the best we’ve ever tasted, but you really ought to try it. The Viennese Bento Box was a satisfying meal, with its generous sampling of sausages, pork, and salads. The aforementioned Wiener schnitzel, a boneless veal chop pounded thin, then breaded and fried golden crisp and served, simply, with a lemon wedge, was lovely.

Our desserts were a kugelhopf, a vanilla-and-chocolate pound cake served with brandied cherries, and Rigo Jancsi (pronounced Ree-go Yanchee), an Austrian take on Tiramisu, with layers of flourless chocolate cake surrounding a layer of chocolate mousse and another of apricot jam, both with the ubiquitous schlag. A good dessert comes with a good story, and this one tells of Mr. Jancsi, a violinist who scandalized Viennese society with his unmitigated promiscuity. We washed away his sins with a small glass of almost unbearably delicious Standing Stone Vidal ice wine. Don’t miss the delicious Linzer Torte, which Gilman occasionally fills with tart currant jam instead of the expected raspberry.

The wine list focuses on nearby wineries with the occasional Austrian addition. Wagner Valley beers go well with smoked meats and wursts. The house wine, served in mugs, is a Standing Stone Vidal Blanc heuriger wine, crafted especially for Daño’s. With these long days, it’s not difficult to get there in time to watch the day dissolve into a magnificent sunset over Seneca Lake, and linger over a leisurely and delightful meal. Daño’s Heuriger is open from noon until 9 p.m. at 9564 Route 414 in Lodi, New York. For reservations and information, call 607 582-7555.