Since the mid-nineteenth century, Ithaca has been overrun by students hungry for cheap eats. Boarding houses provided those first greasy meals. My own student-day recollections (I lived through the sixties, and – strangely – I do remember them) include the long-gone, long mourned UniDeli, which dispensed thick provolone sandwiches on rye, dripping with cole slaw and a wet stalk of pickle for around a buck. In my days as a cafeteria worker, students, having run out of money before they ran out of month, ordered scoops of mashed potatoes with gravy for dinner and made soup out of ketchup and tea-water.
Options have improved considerably. Ithaca, Central New York’s Exotic Restaurant Capital (we’re just missing an Ethiopian restaurant), offers plenty of wholesome dining adventures that’ll provide a day’s worth of topflight nutrition in the five-to-ten-buck range. Here are just a few of your options:
See and be seen in the hall of plenty. Wegmans Julie Jordan Wings of Life Salad Bar will fill you up in a way your body will appreciate. For a meal-sized salad enough for two, order up a pile of fresh baby greens, three kinds of cheeses, two of olives, shocked broccoli, brown rice, chickpeas, spicy tofu cubes, cashews, almonds, and sunflower seeds, a hunk of bread, and your choice of Julie’s own dressings. Mine is the lemon-sesame. Get it to go, or dine right there at Wegmans. A note of caution: it’s surprisingly easy to buy $80 worth of imported cheese, $20 worth of olives, a fresh bouquet of flowers, and a fruit tart on your way through the store.
We’ve long been fans of Viva Taqueria, whose Super Burrito is about the size and shape of a large human stomach. You get your choice of chicken, beef, spicy Mexican sausage chorizo, tofu, or the calabacitas vegetable blend, plus rice, beans, sour cream, cheese, guacamole, and salsa, wrapped in a huge, soft, warm flour tortilla – comfort food at its loveliest, and enough for two people with normal appetites. If you’ve reached the end of your month, a basic burrito, or a hard or soft taco will get you through. Choose hot sauces made with burn-your-tongue, fruity habaneros, smoked red chiles, or jalapenos, three choices of beans, and four of salsas. Fiber challenged? Opt for a side of escabeche, a fresh pickled vegetable mixture, for a buck. On the run? Call ahead (277-1752) for takeout.
The Indian luncheon buffet at Diamonds is one of the best deals in town. Rice and naan, a bread baked on the inside wall of a tandoor oven and served warm, provide a base for an ever-changing roster of vegetarian curries, including a kofta curry of vegetarian “meatballs,” the sweet cabbage curry of my dreams, and rich spinach-y sag paneer; several daals crafted from chickpeas, kidney or other more exotic beans; red tandoori chicken with crisp onion slices, chicken curry, a refreshing iceberg salad, yogurt-and-cucumber raita to cool things off (not that they’re very hot), onion chutney to heat them up, a minty relish, and a sweet-and-sour tamarind sauce. Finish it off with a little bowl of satisfying kheer, a sweetened rice dessert delicately flavored with cardamom.
Before the students come back, and while there’s parking in Collegetown, try Aladdin’s or Metali. Elsewhere, there’s Taste of Thai Express, Glenwood Pines, and the salad bar at the CTB on the corner of Aurora and Seneca Streets. Cheaper than cooking at home.
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Friday, May 23, 2008
STONECAT CAFE -- DON'T MISS THE SMOKED-TOMATO BLOODY MARY!
Whether it was the effect of a rare hot-orange sunset falling over Seneca Lake vineyards, or the fact that we were finally playing on a full deck – that is to say, we snagged the last couple of seats on the Café’s popular shaded dining area – at the Stonecat Café we recently enjoyed one of the most memorable and delicious meals of our food critiquing careers.
Our evening began with a bottle of Finger Lakes bubbly, not our regular Bagley’s, which we love not only for its toasty flavors and fine bubbles, but also because the label letters drift down the bottle in the ice bath, giving us word games to play between courses, but with Swedish Hill’s good semi-dry Riesling, a fitting match for our first course: a green salad with still-pliant dried sour cherries and caramelized walnuts in a roasted garlic vinaigrette, and a plate of crisp crostini to be spread with sweet roasted garlic cloves and a cloud of fluffy chevre. The kitchen sent out a tasting plate of wild mushroom ravioli in a lemon Pecorino cream sauce, redolent of the scent of local woods after rains. Lighter appetites might have let it go at that, but, gourmands that we are, we charged on gamely.
At the Stonecat we tend to fall back on the smoked pulled-pork barbecue in its vinegary Carolina-style barbecue sauce, which is probably the best pulled pork you can get in these parts. We’re also fond of the cornmeal-crusted catfish with its smoked tomato coulis. In fact, Chef Scott Signori is a sort of genius at the smoker, producing his own smoked sausages, wild Alaskan salmon, shrimp, trout, and whatever else he can get his hands on. He smokes tomatoes for his tomato sauces and chilies for his throat-searing “Scooter’s hot sauce.” He has a deep understanding of the smoker’s capabilities, and he uses it imaginatively and judiciously.
Nevertheless, in the interest of giving you a fuller picture, we eschewed the pulled pork and catfish. On one platter, silver-dollar-sized, seared scallops strutted their stuff in a jazzy red Thai curry sauce. Bedded down on a pouf of steamed white rice, the scallops were fresh, sweet, and clearly free of the supermarket additives that pump up weight at the expense of texture and flavor. The curry sauce was spicy enough to bring taste buds to attention, but restrained enough to give those exquisite scallops their rightful stage, front and center.
“Hector pepper molé,” a symphony of smoked chicken, shrimp, and Signori’s own maple-juniper sausages, bathed in a rich molé sauce, played over a pair of herb-flecked polenta pillows. He combines ground almonds and pecans, a warming, fruity medley of ground chilies, and the requisite chocolate for his molé, and it is, as you might expect, dark, complex, and plate-licking good.
We were tempted by the Indian-flavored peas and paneer, a mild, fresh cheese, simmered in a tomato-yogurt sauce, and served over jasmine rice with fresh peach chutney; we’ll have to return to sample it soon. An evening chill moving in, we migrated to the Stonecat’s cozy dining room for finishers, a whipped cream-topped apple crisp and a dish of espresso gelato, to help keep us awake for the drive home over the ridge. We applaud Stonecat’s loyalty to Finger Lakes wines and to locally grown, seasonal, organic foods, which make up more than seventy-five per cent of their menu, and contribute to the freshness and focus of Scott Signori’s cuisine. The café’s service is good-humored, well informed, and attentive, the servers unusually attractive and appealing. That doesn’t hurt.
The Stonecat, which closes from December to March or April, is known for its Sunday jazz brunches featuring Signori’s homemade sausages, corned beef hash, and pulled-pork barbecue, as well as a good selection of vegetarian and vegan options. Dinners are served Friday through Sunday, from 5 to 9. Wednesdays are Pub Nights at the Stonecat, featuring lower-priced sandwiches, platters, pizzettes with a variety of toppings, “nibbles,” (what, exactly, is a catfish finger, we wondered), and sides of their homemade spicy dilly beans and cornbread. Patrons belly up to their ample bar to sample local brews and wines, and gentle musical duos and trios hold forth. Thursday is “Big Night,” where pasta reigns, compatible wines are available by the glass, and prices are pasta-low. Thursday favorites include bison alla Bolognese, and Signori’s spiced-up take on linguini putanesca.
The Stonecat Café is located in the midst of the Hector winery scene, at 5315 Route 414, approximately seven miles north of Watkins Glen, and just a short hop, over Searsburg Road, from Trumansburg. Check out their Web site at www.stonecatcafe.com. It’s a good idea to make reservations, especially on weekend nights. Call them at 607 546-5000.
Our evening began with a bottle of Finger Lakes bubbly, not our regular Bagley’s, which we love not only for its toasty flavors and fine bubbles, but also because the label letters drift down the bottle in the ice bath, giving us word games to play between courses, but with Swedish Hill’s good semi-dry Riesling, a fitting match for our first course: a green salad with still-pliant dried sour cherries and caramelized walnuts in a roasted garlic vinaigrette, and a plate of crisp crostini to be spread with sweet roasted garlic cloves and a cloud of fluffy chevre. The kitchen sent out a tasting plate of wild mushroom ravioli in a lemon Pecorino cream sauce, redolent of the scent of local woods after rains. Lighter appetites might have let it go at that, but, gourmands that we are, we charged on gamely.
At the Stonecat we tend to fall back on the smoked pulled-pork barbecue in its vinegary Carolina-style barbecue sauce, which is probably the best pulled pork you can get in these parts. We’re also fond of the cornmeal-crusted catfish with its smoked tomato coulis. In fact, Chef Scott Signori is a sort of genius at the smoker, producing his own smoked sausages, wild Alaskan salmon, shrimp, trout, and whatever else he can get his hands on. He smokes tomatoes for his tomato sauces and chilies for his throat-searing “Scooter’s hot sauce.” He has a deep understanding of the smoker’s capabilities, and he uses it imaginatively and judiciously.
Nevertheless, in the interest of giving you a fuller picture, we eschewed the pulled pork and catfish. On one platter, silver-dollar-sized, seared scallops strutted their stuff in a jazzy red Thai curry sauce. Bedded down on a pouf of steamed white rice, the scallops were fresh, sweet, and clearly free of the supermarket additives that pump up weight at the expense of texture and flavor. The curry sauce was spicy enough to bring taste buds to attention, but restrained enough to give those exquisite scallops their rightful stage, front and center.
“Hector pepper molé,” a symphony of smoked chicken, shrimp, and Signori’s own maple-juniper sausages, bathed in a rich molé sauce, played over a pair of herb-flecked polenta pillows. He combines ground almonds and pecans, a warming, fruity medley of ground chilies, and the requisite chocolate for his molé, and it is, as you might expect, dark, complex, and plate-licking good.
We were tempted by the Indian-flavored peas and paneer, a mild, fresh cheese, simmered in a tomato-yogurt sauce, and served over jasmine rice with fresh peach chutney; we’ll have to return to sample it soon. An evening chill moving in, we migrated to the Stonecat’s cozy dining room for finishers, a whipped cream-topped apple crisp and a dish of espresso gelato, to help keep us awake for the drive home over the ridge. We applaud Stonecat’s loyalty to Finger Lakes wines and to locally grown, seasonal, organic foods, which make up more than seventy-five per cent of their menu, and contribute to the freshness and focus of Scott Signori’s cuisine. The café’s service is good-humored, well informed, and attentive, the servers unusually attractive and appealing. That doesn’t hurt.
The Stonecat, which closes from December to March or April, is known for its Sunday jazz brunches featuring Signori’s homemade sausages, corned beef hash, and pulled-pork barbecue, as well as a good selection of vegetarian and vegan options. Dinners are served Friday through Sunday, from 5 to 9. Wednesdays are Pub Nights at the Stonecat, featuring lower-priced sandwiches, platters, pizzettes with a variety of toppings, “nibbles,” (what, exactly, is a catfish finger, we wondered), and sides of their homemade spicy dilly beans and cornbread. Patrons belly up to their ample bar to sample local brews and wines, and gentle musical duos and trios hold forth. Thursday is “Big Night,” where pasta reigns, compatible wines are available by the glass, and prices are pasta-low. Thursday favorites include bison alla Bolognese, and Signori’s spiced-up take on linguini putanesca.
The Stonecat Café is located in the midst of the Hector winery scene, at 5315 Route 414, approximately seven miles north of Watkins Glen, and just a short hop, over Searsburg Road, from Trumansburg. Check out their Web site at www.stonecatcafe.com. It’s a good idea to make reservations, especially on weekend nights. Call them at 607 546-5000.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
DANO'S ON SENECA
Driving over the ridge that separates Cayuga and Seneca Lakes, preoccupations and concerns of the day evaporate as painterly views of farms, lake, and vineyards unfold। It’s a mini-vacation heading to Daño’s Heuriger in Lodi for a leisurely dinner.
What is a heuriger (pronounced hoy-rigger)? Born in the vineyards surrounding Vienna, it’s an informal place for drinking new wine in mugs, and dining on hearty, satisfying local foods—spreads, salads, smoked or roasted meats, fresh fish, and—hey, this is about Vienna—fabulous desserts with plenty of schlag (whipped cream)।
Daño Hutnik and Karen Gilman, with Cornell architect Andrea Simmitch, have constructed a bright, airy place with a large dining patio and spectacular vineyard and lake views। Displaying Gilman’s large, colorful landscape paintings, it fills with a lively crowd of couples out for a romantic evening; tourists from as far away as Ukraine and as near as Rochester; extended families (Hutnik and Gilman make special provision for serving meals family style); and vineyard workers, winemakers, and cellar rats from nearby wineries. We’re always surprised at the number of Ithacans we run into, too.
This particular area around Seneca Lake, locally called “the banana belt” for its uncharacteristically mild climates, grows some of the finest vinifera grapes and makes some of the most highly acclaimed wines in the Finger Lakes, and has attracted its more than its share of international press and Governor’s Cup wine awards. If you’re wondering which wine goes with Wiener schnitzel, start with a bottle of Lamoreaux Landing Blanc de Blanc bubbly, which goes with just about anything, and is bound to put you in a cheery mood.
We began our meal with a salad of mixed organic field greens, with the first fresh dill of the season, culled from the restaurant’s herb garden, and served with red wine–roasted peaches, shaved sheep’s milk black peppercorn cheese, endive slivers, and caramelized walnuts. A bowl of steamed Prince Edward Island mussels festooned with “seed pearls” of garlic, and minced parsley and fresh tarragon was the best we’ve tasted since a breakfast of mussels on Cape Breton Island years ago. A basket of mixed artisanal breads served to sop up the juices. On a hot June day, this might have served as dinner. But eager for this culinary adventure, we forged ahead, testing the spreads that are a Daño’s specialty: Liptauer, reddened with sweet paprika; Hotel Sacher, punctuated with bits of pickle and capers; and our favorite, a pumpkin seed oil spread. On other occasions we’ve also enjoyed the gorgonzola, bacon, horseradish walnut, and artichoke-lemon spreads. This night the kitchen sent out a sampler of salads, too: a mustardy celery-root; a creamy, mild salsify; a tangy/vinegary cucumber salad; and our all-time favorite, Daño’s magenta-colored, sinus-clearing horseradish beet salad.
We're sworn to secrecy re the ingredient that makes Daño’s red cabbage the best we’ve ever tasted, but you really ought to try it. The Viennese Bento Box was a satisfying meal, with its generous sampling of sausages, pork, and salads. The aforementioned Wiener schnitzel, a boneless veal chop pounded thin, then breaded and fried golden crisp and served, simply, with a lemon wedge, was lovely.
Our desserts were a kugelhopf, a vanilla-and-chocolate pound cake served with brandied cherries, and Rigo Jancsi (pronounced Ree-go Yanchee), an Austrian take on Tiramisu, with layers of flourless chocolate cake surrounding a layer of chocolate mousse and another of apricot jam, both with the ubiquitous schlag. A good dessert comes with a good story, and this one tells of Mr. Jancsi, a violinist who scandalized Viennese society with his unmitigated promiscuity. We washed away his sins with a small glass of almost unbearably delicious Standing Stone Vidal ice wine. Don’t miss the delicious Linzer Torte, which Gilman occasionally fills with tart currant jam instead of the expected raspberry.
The wine list focuses on nearby wineries with the occasional Austrian addition. Wagner Valley beers go well with smoked meats and wursts. The house wine, served in mugs, is a Standing Stone Vidal Blanc heuriger wine, crafted especially for Daño’s. With these long days, it’s not difficult to get there in time to watch the day dissolve into a magnificent sunset over Seneca Lake, and linger over a leisurely and delightful meal. Daño’s Heuriger is open from noon until 9 p.m. at 9564 Route 414 in Lodi, New York. For reservations and information, call 607 582-7555.
This particular area around Seneca Lake, locally called “the banana belt” for its uncharacteristically mild climates, grows some of the finest vinifera grapes and makes some of the most highly acclaimed wines in the Finger Lakes, and has attracted its more than its share of international press and Governor’s Cup wine awards. If you’re wondering which wine goes with Wiener schnitzel, start with a bottle of Lamoreaux Landing Blanc de Blanc bubbly, which goes with just about anything, and is bound to put you in a cheery mood.
We began our meal with a salad of mixed organic field greens, with the first fresh dill of the season, culled from the restaurant’s herb garden, and served with red wine–roasted peaches, shaved sheep’s milk black peppercorn cheese, endive slivers, and caramelized walnuts. A bowl of steamed Prince Edward Island mussels festooned with “seed pearls” of garlic, and minced parsley and fresh tarragon was the best we’ve tasted since a breakfast of mussels on Cape Breton Island years ago. A basket of mixed artisanal breads served to sop up the juices. On a hot June day, this might have served as dinner. But eager for this culinary adventure, we forged ahead, testing the spreads that are a Daño’s specialty: Liptauer, reddened with sweet paprika; Hotel Sacher, punctuated with bits of pickle and capers; and our favorite, a pumpkin seed oil spread. On other occasions we’ve also enjoyed the gorgonzola, bacon, horseradish walnut, and artichoke-lemon spreads. This night the kitchen sent out a sampler of salads, too: a mustardy celery-root; a creamy, mild salsify; a tangy/vinegary cucumber salad; and our all-time favorite, Daño’s magenta-colored, sinus-clearing horseradish beet salad.
We're sworn to secrecy re the ingredient that makes Daño’s red cabbage the best we’ve ever tasted, but you really ought to try it. The Viennese Bento Box was a satisfying meal, with its generous sampling of sausages, pork, and salads. The aforementioned Wiener schnitzel, a boneless veal chop pounded thin, then breaded and fried golden crisp and served, simply, with a lemon wedge, was lovely.
Our desserts were a kugelhopf, a vanilla-and-chocolate pound cake served with brandied cherries, and Rigo Jancsi (pronounced Ree-go Yanchee), an Austrian take on Tiramisu, with layers of flourless chocolate cake surrounding a layer of chocolate mousse and another of apricot jam, both with the ubiquitous schlag. A good dessert comes with a good story, and this one tells of Mr. Jancsi, a violinist who scandalized Viennese society with his unmitigated promiscuity. We washed away his sins with a small glass of almost unbearably delicious Standing Stone Vidal ice wine. Don’t miss the delicious Linzer Torte, which Gilman occasionally fills with tart currant jam instead of the expected raspberry.
The wine list focuses on nearby wineries with the occasional Austrian addition. Wagner Valley beers go well with smoked meats and wursts. The house wine, served in mugs, is a Standing Stone Vidal Blanc heuriger wine, crafted especially for Daño’s. With these long days, it’s not difficult to get there in time to watch the day dissolve into a magnificent sunset over Seneca Lake, and linger over a leisurely and delightful meal. Daño’s Heuriger is open from noon until 9 p.m. at 9564 Route 414 in Lodi, New York. For reservations and information, call 607 582-7555.
Sunday, May 18, 2008
LOCAVORES STRIKE IT RICH IN ITHACA -- GET YOUR OWN GOAT (with recipe)
For years local chefs searched in vain for home-grown center-of-the-plate goods, and now there’s no shortage of same, thanks to McDonald Farms, The Piggery, Northland Sheep Dairy, Autumn's Harvest, and others, many of them Ithaca Farmers Market regulars.
Blue Stone Bar and Grill’s chef/owner Doug Gruen, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, veteran of many Big Apple top restaurants, and one of Ithaca’s burgeoning mob of talented “buy local, cook local” chefs, purchases vegetables and salad greens in their season from Nathaniel Thompson’s Remembrance Farm in T-burg, a member of the area’s Full Plate Farm Collective.
“The less traveling it has to do makes a big impression on the flavor of produce,” Gruen said. “And to sell [to restaurants], local farmers have to be better than average; they put a lot more effort into making their product more flavorful and tasty.” For winter, though, he has found a good source for goat meat in John Wertis, whose Searsburg BWW Farm produces a variety of goat cuts available year round, from leg of goat (think leg of lamb without the fragrance of Persian lamb coat) to goatburger, great for a warming chili, and even goat summer sausage. Goat meat is also known as chevon or, in the Southwest, cabrito (always makes me think of “cabrito ergo sum”: which translates to “therefore I am a young goat,” which doesn’t make any sense at all, but gives me the giggles). Low in cholesterol and fat (143 calories per 100 grams; chicken has 223, beef 305), and high in flavor, but without venison’s gaminess, goat cooks best at a slow braise, and Gruen’s recipe for goat curry is sure to fill a kitchen with lovely aromas as it cooks, and to elicit a chorus of yums around your table.
Doug Gruen’s Indonesian-style Goat Curry (serves 6)
2 Tbsp canola oil
2 lbs goat meat cubes with bones
1 cup diced onion
½ cup diced carrots
½ cup diced celery
1 tsp chopped garlic
1 Tbsp curry powder (Gruen prefers yellow curry powder, but curry paste can be used, or any other kind of curry powder)
½ tsp dried thyme
¼ tsp freshly ground pepper
1 bay leaf
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 cup chicken stock
½ cup coconut milk
½ cup low sodium soy sauce
½ cup soy milk
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1 Tbsp lemon juice
½ cup peanut butter, smooth or chunky
In a hot skillet, brown pieces of goat in canola oil. When meat is browned, add diced onion and sauté until onions take on a little color. Toss in carrots; cook for three minutes. Add celery. Make a place for the garlic in the middle of the sauté pan, and sauté the garlic until it has some color.
At highest heat, add curry powder, thyme, black pepper and bay leaf and sauté for a minute or two.
Then add all other ingredients except peanut butter, and lower flame to medium. Cover and cook until meat is tender and falling off the bone (start checking after an hour or so). Remove meat from pan; de-bone, and discard bones.
Add peanut butter to sauce in pan, whisk in well, then return goat to pan. Taste for seasoning, and serve piping hot with white steamed jasmine rice and the following garnishes: chopped scallions, chopped peanuts, chopped fresh coconut (roasted in a small pan in the oven for a short time), chopped bacon, and mango chutney. Gruen likes to serve all the garnishes in small bowls on a lazy susan in the middle of the table so diners can help themselves.
You, too, can order goat from Wertis’ BWW Farm at 387-4331; check out his Web site, http://goatmeatsny.com/, for additional recipes. You can find even more recipes at http://www.greatgoats.com/cooking.html. Should you have time, space, and inclination, there’s information on growing your own on the Web site of Cornell’s Sheep and Goat Marketing Program, where Trumansburg’s Dr. tatiana [the “T” is lower case] Stanton, a goat expert who got her start running a Peace Corps goat program in Jamaica, holds forth with good information and a few warnings.
We dined recently at Blue Stone Bar and Grill, (110 North Aurora Street, Ithaca) and enjoyed immensely Gruen’s creations, (especially his braised pork shank with brandy-glazed apples and his wasabi-glazed salmon), the restaurant’s atmosphere, and selections from their imaginative drinks menu. Call 272-2371 for information and reservations. You’re in for a treat if there’s curried goat on the menu.
“The less traveling it has to do makes a big impression on the flavor of produce,” Gruen said. “And to sell [to restaurants], local farmers have to be better than average; they put a lot more effort into making their product more flavorful and tasty.” For winter, though, he has found a good source for goat meat in John Wertis, whose Searsburg BWW Farm produces a variety of goat cuts available year round, from leg of goat (think leg of lamb without the fragrance of Persian lamb coat) to goatburger, great for a warming chili, and even goat summer sausage. Goat meat is also known as chevon or, in the Southwest, cabrito (always makes me think of “cabrito ergo sum”: which translates to “therefore I am a young goat,” which doesn’t make any sense at all, but gives me the giggles). Low in cholesterol and fat (143 calories per 100 grams; chicken has 223, beef 305), and high in flavor, but without venison’s gaminess, goat cooks best at a slow braise, and Gruen’s recipe for goat curry is sure to fill a kitchen with lovely aromas as it cooks, and to elicit a chorus of yums around your table.
Doug Gruen’s Indonesian-style Goat Curry (serves 6)
2 Tbsp canola oil
2 lbs goat meat cubes with bones
1 cup diced onion
½ cup diced carrots
½ cup diced celery
1 tsp chopped garlic
1 Tbsp curry powder (Gruen prefers yellow curry powder, but curry paste can be used, or any other kind of curry powder)
½ tsp dried thyme
¼ tsp freshly ground pepper
1 bay leaf
1 Tbsp tomato paste
1 cup chicken stock
½ cup coconut milk
½ cup low sodium soy sauce
½ cup soy milk
1 Tbsp brown sugar
1 Tbsp lemon juice
½ cup peanut butter, smooth or chunky
In a hot skillet, brown pieces of goat in canola oil. When meat is browned, add diced onion and sauté until onions take on a little color. Toss in carrots; cook for three minutes. Add celery. Make a place for the garlic in the middle of the sauté pan, and sauté the garlic until it has some color.
At highest heat, add curry powder, thyme, black pepper and bay leaf and sauté for a minute or two.
Then add all other ingredients except peanut butter, and lower flame to medium. Cover and cook until meat is tender and falling off the bone (start checking after an hour or so). Remove meat from pan; de-bone, and discard bones.
Add peanut butter to sauce in pan, whisk in well, then return goat to pan. Taste for seasoning, and serve piping hot with white steamed jasmine rice and the following garnishes: chopped scallions, chopped peanuts, chopped fresh coconut (roasted in a small pan in the oven for a short time), chopped bacon, and mango chutney. Gruen likes to serve all the garnishes in small bowls on a lazy susan in the middle of the table so diners can help themselves.
You, too, can order goat from Wertis’ BWW Farm at 387-4331; check out his Web site, http://goatmeatsny.com/, for additional recipes. You can find even more recipes at http://www.greatgoats.com/cooking.html. Should you have time, space, and inclination, there’s information on growing your own on the Web site of Cornell’s Sheep and Goat Marketing Program, where Trumansburg’s Dr. tatiana [the “T” is lower case] Stanton, a goat expert who got her start running a Peace Corps goat program in Jamaica, holds forth with good information and a few warnings.
We dined recently at Blue Stone Bar and Grill, (110 North Aurora Street, Ithaca) and enjoyed immensely Gruen’s creations, (especially his braised pork shank with brandy-glazed apples and his wasabi-glazed salmon), the restaurant’s atmosphere, and selections from their imaginative drinks menu. Call 272-2371 for information and reservations. You’re in for a treat if there’s curried goat on the menu.
BLUE STONE BAR AND GRILL
Ambling down Aurora Street, it’s hard to miss the Blue Stone Bar and Grill, with its startling blue-lighted façade. Douglas Gruen, a Culinary Institute of America graduate who’s knocked about starred restaurants in New York City and, more recently, in Santa Cruz, and his wife, pastry chef Nancy Gruen, came to Ithaca in search of a sensible place to raise a family and run a business. Since arriving here, they have kept the local quarry and neon sign makers busy.
The focus of Blue Stone’s dining room, accented by its quirky beaded lighting fixtures, is an impressive looking bluestone-topped bar. Bluestone is the local limestone – called Llenroc. Taking our cue from the bar’s smartly stocked shelves, we started our evening with a pair of topflight cocktails: a surprising Magellan martini, its blue blush a product of an iris infusion, and the freshest, fruitiest, summeriest margarita we’ve sipped in ages.
We blissfully kissed our diets goodbye – at least for an evening. Not that they don’t have an excellent selection of salads, but. . . The Gruens sent out a dazzling and tastebud-boggling parade of appetizers. A warm baby artichoke soufflé with little chunks of pecorino romano took the chill off the evening. Chunky-wonderful black bean crab cakes, served on a whoopee cushion of beans with a cap of chipotle tartar sauce, had a delicate flavor followed by a warm and tingly after-burn – nearly better than sex. Char-grilled strips of chicken breast floated in a Thai-esque peanut sesame sauce with a side of cilantro-laced cucumber and red pepper salad, an adventure in freshness. Bacon-wrapped scallops, tender and sweet, were served up in their shells – well, in somebody’s shells -- laced with a creamy Green Goddess sauce. And as we wondered how we’d ever have room for the entrees, a final affront to our diets arrived: rich puff pastry beggars’ purses stuffed with warm brie, pistachios, and dried cranberries, in a pool of raspberry coulis. Aaaaaaahhhhh! Arghhhh! Onward!
We determined gourmands eschewed the beef entrees – Kentucky Bourbon Black Angus sirloin, and grilled filet of beef – to sample a couple of the menu’s more unusual offerings. Jamaican jerk catfish was cooked perfectly, subtly spiced, served over bright, wilted spinach, its flavors brought to life with a sauce of cilantro and lime, with sides of a heavenly sweet potato and caramelized onion hash and meringue-light fried plantains. Across the table, a grilled eggplant half, stuffed with tomatoes and topped with creamy baked goat cheese, had the look of an oversized lobster tail, and a delicious flavor and tenderness. Its side was a homey conglomerate of couscous, lentils, and roasted red peppers. At some future date we look forward to sampling the roasted wasabi salmon with hoisin sriracha chili sauce, and the garlic chicken with a sherry-lemon pan drippings reduction. Bluestone’s chef has a great gift for combining unusual flavors. We were happy to find all presentations blessedly horizontal. The challenge is not in deconstruction, but in cessation.
Though we could barely open our mouths to it, we dutifully report that the carrot cake is moist and satisfying, and the flourless chocolate torte is everything one should be. Either would be delightful with an after-theater nightcap, say a warming brandy, or one of those goofy chocolate things that calls itself a martini.
Next morning we shunned the tyrannical bathroom scale. The day after, we were missing two pounds. We’ll never understand how that happened, but we’d love to fantasize that the Blue Stone diet is the wave of the future. Prices are reasonable. We were lured into writing this review by reports of great hamburgers at lunch. We’ll be back to sample those – and the salads. The place is cozy enough for the waitstaff to monitor patrons’ needs, but large enough to permit privacy – if that’s what you seek. Three cheers for Blue Stone’s friendly, attentive service. The wine selection, though reasonably priced, was a little disappointing, with only one Finger Lakes offering, but we were pleased to see a good number of wines offered by the glass. Blue Stone Bar & Grill, 110 North Aurora Street, is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. For information, reservations, and catering, call 272-2371.
The focus of Blue Stone’s dining room, accented by its quirky beaded lighting fixtures, is an impressive looking bluestone-topped bar. Bluestone is the local limestone – called Llenroc. Taking our cue from the bar’s smartly stocked shelves, we started our evening with a pair of topflight cocktails: a surprising Magellan martini, its blue blush a product of an iris infusion, and the freshest, fruitiest, summeriest margarita we’ve sipped in ages.
We blissfully kissed our diets goodbye – at least for an evening. Not that they don’t have an excellent selection of salads, but. . . The Gruens sent out a dazzling and tastebud-boggling parade of appetizers. A warm baby artichoke soufflé with little chunks of pecorino romano took the chill off the evening. Chunky-wonderful black bean crab cakes, served on a whoopee cushion of beans with a cap of chipotle tartar sauce, had a delicate flavor followed by a warm and tingly after-burn – nearly better than sex. Char-grilled strips of chicken breast floated in a Thai-esque peanut sesame sauce with a side of cilantro-laced cucumber and red pepper salad, an adventure in freshness. Bacon-wrapped scallops, tender and sweet, were served up in their shells – well, in somebody’s shells -- laced with a creamy Green Goddess sauce. And as we wondered how we’d ever have room for the entrees, a final affront to our diets arrived: rich puff pastry beggars’ purses stuffed with warm brie, pistachios, and dried cranberries, in a pool of raspberry coulis. Aaaaaaahhhhh! Arghhhh! Onward!
We determined gourmands eschewed the beef entrees – Kentucky Bourbon Black Angus sirloin, and grilled filet of beef – to sample a couple of the menu’s more unusual offerings. Jamaican jerk catfish was cooked perfectly, subtly spiced, served over bright, wilted spinach, its flavors brought to life with a sauce of cilantro and lime, with sides of a heavenly sweet potato and caramelized onion hash and meringue-light fried plantains. Across the table, a grilled eggplant half, stuffed with tomatoes and topped with creamy baked goat cheese, had the look of an oversized lobster tail, and a delicious flavor and tenderness. Its side was a homey conglomerate of couscous, lentils, and roasted red peppers. At some future date we look forward to sampling the roasted wasabi salmon with hoisin sriracha chili sauce, and the garlic chicken with a sherry-lemon pan drippings reduction. Bluestone’s chef has a great gift for combining unusual flavors. We were happy to find all presentations blessedly horizontal. The challenge is not in deconstruction, but in cessation.
Though we could barely open our mouths to it, we dutifully report that the carrot cake is moist and satisfying, and the flourless chocolate torte is everything one should be. Either would be delightful with an after-theater nightcap, say a warming brandy, or one of those goofy chocolate things that calls itself a martini.
Next morning we shunned the tyrannical bathroom scale. The day after, we were missing two pounds. We’ll never understand how that happened, but we’d love to fantasize that the Blue Stone diet is the wave of the future. Prices are reasonable. We were lured into writing this review by reports of great hamburgers at lunch. We’ll be back to sample those – and the salads. The place is cozy enough for the waitstaff to monitor patrons’ needs, but large enough to permit privacy – if that’s what you seek. Three cheers for Blue Stone’s friendly, attentive service. The wine selection, though reasonably priced, was a little disappointing, with only one Finger Lakes offering, but we were pleased to see a good number of wines offered by the glass. Blue Stone Bar & Grill, 110 North Aurora Street, is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. For information, reservations, and catering, call 272-2371.
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