DINNER AT BANFI'S

Until recently, hotel dining facilities had been notoriously middle-of-the-road, but when the hotel is also part of an Ivy League school of hotel administration, one expects better. And, we are happy to say, dining at Taverna Banfi pans out as a delightful experience, one befitting the “world’s premier hotel management school.” We’ve enjoyed several dinners here on our own dime, and happily report that it is, indeed a first-class white-linen restaurant, with comfortable furnishings, long views of the city twinkling below, careful and just-friendly-enough service, and the luxury of seating spaced for conversational privacy.

As we perused the menu, our waiter set before us a basket of foccaccia, little flasks of olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and a plate of appeteasers – pitted Kalamata olives, a bit of grated asiago cheese, red pepper flakes, and a sprinkling of fresh dill. For starters, the Taverna Caesar salad was all that it should have been – crisp and lemony, topped with a blizzard of cheese shaved into airy wisps. A frito misto of calamari, shrimp, scallops, and tender-fleshed white fish, was light and crisp, its limoncello aioli dip creamy; crisp strips of marinated red pepper, celery, and onion provided a zingy counterpoint to all that richness. The pasta di giorno of linguini in a cream sauce was made interesting by a contrast: the tartness of cherry tomatoes with the sweetness of green peas, all topped with one meaty roasted shrimp. Another, a dusky sage butter sauce – more cream here -- enveloped triangular house-made ravioli which gave way to a smoothe sweet potato filling, which, had It been chocolate, might have been better than sex. All the same, it was pretty darned good.

For main courses, a duck breast was well seasoned and sautéed to tender rareness, and apples, raisins, and sherry provided a pleasant acidic balance to the richness of an accompanying duck confit. A meaty braised lamb shank, with a red wine and veal demi-glace, was architectural in its presentation, and though we were told it had braised for six hours, rendering it fork-tender, it had a pleasing dark, caramelized coating. Gremolata, a dash of the lemon peel, garlic, and parsley seasoning, added further dimension to the dish’s flavor palette. Both entrees topped roasted asparagus and a sweet, comforting wintry mash of potatoes and parsnips. Other main-course options included salmon with a Cornell apple cider reduction; crab-stuffed polenta-crusted trout with red pepper stew and olive tapenade; and mushroom cannelloni with a white wine mushroom sauce. For those with lighter appetites, or those who fear drifting off during a post-prandial concert, Taverna Banfi also offers a selection of individual pizzas -- grilled vegetables, pesto, pine nuts, and New York State ricotta; pear, prosciutto, walnuts, Lively Run goat cheese among them -- colorful antipasti, and a hearty Tuscan soup, as well as a selection of salads.

Since the Taverna is part of the School of Hotel Administration’s teaching program, a feature of the menu is a prix-fixe three-course menu created by students in the restaurant management course – a trio of crostini with a variety of colorful toppings, beef tenderloin with grilled asparagus and basil risotto, and a dessert of espresso cheesecake with Chantilly cream and honey pine-nut brittle ran $35. A vegetarian entrée is an option, as is a wine paired with each of the three courses for an additional $15.

A comprehensive and well chosen wine list includes a good selection of half bottles. We chose Keuka Lake’s Ravines Cabernet Franc and a Willamette Valley Whole Cluster Pinot Noir from a wines-by-the-glass menu featuring more than two dozen wines from Italy, the West Coast, Australia, and the Finger Lakes among others, including both sparklers and dessert wines.

For dessert, a large portion of chocolate tiramisu, enough for two, and a toffee cake with plump white raisins, a toffee sauce, vanilla gelato, and a buttery cookie with almonds and sesame seeds coupled with Taverna Banfi’s good coffee, had us thoroughly warmed up as we toddled – or should we say waddled – back out into the wintry, star-lit night.

Yes, the staff pulled out all the stops for us as reviewers and our meals were top quality, but both food and service were equally sterling when we, as members of the general public, dashed in unannounced for a rushed dinner a few weeks before, and were probably our waiter’s nightly nightmare. It’s better to set aside the time to enjoy Banfi’s menu, wine list, and ambiance, and it’s definitely worth a hike up East Hill for same. Free valet parking for restaurant patrons (have your ticket stamped by your server) add to the pleasure of an evening of dinner and Cornell theater, or a music or sporting event. Taverna Banfi is located at 130 Statler Drive on the Cornell University campus. It is also open for breakfast, lunch, and a sumptuous Sunday brunch. For information and reservations, recommended for concert nights and parent-type and alumni weekends, call 607.254.2565. For menu and additional information, check out their Web site at www.statlerhotel.cornell.edu/dining/banfis_menus.html.